Samui may be a small island, which can be circumnavigated in a couple hours on a bike, but that doesn’t mean it lacks good biking. Most visitors come for the diving and beach life but mountain bike fans will be pleased to discover Red Bicycle near Lamai beach. With a modest hilly interior and plenty of old trails among the coconut trails the riding on Samui can be great, as I found out on a day out with the ‘Red crew’. Never have I felt so satisfied with being away from the beach.
Set up a few years back by ex-San Francisco couple Mike and Debra Yantis, Red Bicycle is Samui’s only mountain bike experience, and they’ve built up a great selection of high end bikes and trails to ride them on. And when you get bored with these, they’ll take you over to Koh Pha Ngan which is, in many ways, even better.
Well, real mountain bikers don’t stand around talking about their bikes, so we were soon on our saddles and off into the wilderness of the Southern Part of the island. Since I’m usually spoilt in my home town with excellent downhill, I opted for the route through the coconut trees. The undulating and windy farmer trails that led us to Hin Lat falls were perfect for testing out the Canondale Jekyll I had had my eye on in their shop. The small group also made it feel like I was back home riding with my mates, rather than joining a large group of novices.
There’s quite a bit more to Samui than sun, sea and sand. Admittedly the beach life is the best part of Samui and the focus of any Samui guide. Each of the beach areas of the island have their own character and attractions, however there is also the lush hilly inland and several fantastic islands nearby. Samui also has an excellent selection of entertainment options to keep you amused.
As a guide, Samui is essentially a leisure island, and apart from the southern part of the island which has retained its original character, most of the island’s coastal areas have now been developed for commercial tourism. Some are packed with hotels and resorts while other pockets are quieter and reserved for boutique resorts, but the beaches are all public and open to anyone wishing to stroll along the peaceful white sands. You can hire a bike yourself (being careful of the reckless driving) and circumnavigate the island, exploring and discovering pristine beaches or relaxing beachfront restaurants. Alternatively you can hire a local Samui guide to show you around.
The Big Buddha, located on the north of the island is in all the guide books of Samui, but there are several other temples and chedis worth seeking out. Most of the free maps that are widely distributed can indicate where the best lookouts are and which waterfalls are notable. Then there are the famous, erotically shaped, Hin Ta and Hin Ya rocks at the southern end of Lamai.
As a basic guide to beaches on Samui, Chaweng is the busiest and most developed but pleasant, especially for sundowners. The shops on the main street are also handy for stocking up. Lamai, further south, is a bit more down to earth and has a lively night scene. The beaches of the North; Big Buddha bay, Bophut and Mae Nam are more relaxed and quieter, though not as nice for swimming. Nathon, on the west of the island, is the commercial centre, Thai in character and hardly a tropical vacation paradise, but if you’re more interested in the original atmosphere of the island then head to the coconut plantations of the south.
There are three main islands near Samui which are popular and worth visiting. Koh Pha Ngan is the backpacker island, down to earth, under-developed, bohemian and famous for its monthly full moon parties. The lush natural interior and pristine beaches are a perfect escape. Diving enthusiasts head to Koh Tao, further north, with its excellent dive infrastructure, fantastic reefs and clear water. But for a real paradise take a day trip to the gorgeous Ang Thong National Park which is the least spoilt of all and accessible from Samui with a guide.
