Monday, January 5, 2009
Koh Samui
Koh Samui Back in the halcyon days of the 1960's, there were no Lonely Planets to guide the trickle of adventurers travelling overland between Europe and Asia. Unlike today's pampered and ubiquitous backpackers, yesterday's intrepid young explorers had to rely on word of mouth advice about the route lying ahead. Amongst other essentials, this included "approved" lodgings, where kindred spirits globe-trotting in opposite directions congregated, and exchanged information about rutted roads already endured.
One such hostelry was the legendary Thai Song Greet Hotel, (alas, gone forever) near Bangkok's central Hualumpong railway station. At 20 baht (then worth US$1) a night, it was still considered "expensive" for it had grimy rooms, and guests shared a small, smelly toilet-cum-bathroom at the end of each cluttered and humid corridor. Those who could not afford the hotel's dubious luxury nevertheless came here to obtain that precious intelligence essential for their onward journey.
If Koh Samui is well known today, the first reverent mention of the name was most likely heard in the packed downstairs restaurant of that dirty but charismatic tryst. Amongst the pungent smoke billowing from the cook's wok, word frequently passed around about an idyllic island in the south east of Thailand, very difficult to reach, a place with only walking tracks, and as close to being paradise as Mother Earth can possibly provide. Furthermore, this was no tiny islet, but a large and mountainous tropical haven with rushing streams, thick forests, and dozens of deserted pristine palm-fringed beaches, the stuff of dreams and fantasy.
Born therefore - like so many other resorts - of backpackers' private discoveries, Samui forty years on boasts a network of roads, an entire tourism infrastructure, and almost-hourly flights landing at the picturesque airport. If purists might lament this transformation, the island nonetheless retains much of its magic, and international tourism has done little so far to mar the intrinsic tropical beauty. Development has affected mostly the coastal areas, and much of the mountainous interior remains untouched. Up here, the friendly inhabitants carry on their lives cultivating coconuts, banana, durian and paddy just as before, accepting sun-lotioned foreigners as an inevitable result of progress, like telephones and television.
Today, plump middle-aged codgers, who, as slim pimply-faced youths might have lounged under Samui's swaying palms in 1962, can still relive that lost island feeling today, albeit with luxury hotels and the conveniences of the 21st century all around, and the sense of real adventure long since gone.
Roughly 250 square kilometres in size, and rising to a height of 635 metres, this rugged granite island is almost the size of Penang, and Thailand's third largest after Phuket and Ko Chang. ("Koh"is Thai for island) Settled originally by Malaysian and Chinese fishermen, it is thought that the name Samui derives from the Chinese word Saboey, meaning safe harbour. Less developed than Phuket, it boasts its own distinct personality, and the proud native population of around 50,000 speaks its own distinctive southern dialect.
It has an enjoyable but often unpredictable mix of tropical weather conditions, the sunniest months falling between January and August, with occasional refreshing downpours. More frequent rainstorms arrive in September/October, lasting through to December. The hottest months are from March to June. The sea temperature averages 29 degrees Celsius year round.
What to Do?
As hedonists gleefully point out, this exotic corner of Asia is a beach lover's dream, for it has no historical or cultural "must sees". If you do nothing for your entire stay than eat, sunbathe, swim and sleep, you are not likely to feel that your indulgence has caused you to miss seeing some once-in-a-lifetime attraction. At worst, you will deny yourself the pleasure of seeing some stunning natural scenery, a few interesting temples, and probably add a few unwelcome kilos to your mortal frame. If you decide to go sightseeing, a couple of excursions and a hire car for a day or two will do nicely. There are also pleasant boat trips to the Ang Thong Marine National Park, or to smaller neighbouring islands such as Koh Tao, or the larger island of Pha-Ngan, the latter a trendy full-moon place of pilgrimage for the modern-day counterparts of the Thai Song Greet Hotel. Numerous SCUBA schools cater for beginners as well as conducting deep dives for skilled aficionados in waters rich in marine life off deserted uninhabited islands.
The profound beauty of the area has attracted a number of artists, writers and retirees, living happily ever after in secluded island corners. Drawn also by the idyllic environment, purveyors of alternative medicine and whole-body practices enthusiastically offer their services, as do others teaching metaphysical and martial arts. In contrast to the all night swinging discos with their less-than-healthy associations, Samui is becoming a Mecca for followers of physical and spiritual disciplines.
Several establishments on the island offer supervised "detoxification" and fasting programmes, often coupled with yoga, meditation, or other mind-body regimes. Other possibilities include a broad spectrum of treatments or instruction, including Thai Massage, Shiatsu, Craniosacral Therapy, Acupuncture, Reflexology, Aromatherapy, Colonic Lavage, Ayurveda, Acupressure, Hydrotherapy, Qi Kung, Reiki, Vortex Astrology, Taoist Health, Tarot studies, and others.
Although many of these might be both bona-fide and beneficial, the line between holistic hype and medical fact is often blurred, as is that between the spurious and the spiritual. It is prudent therefore to check credibility and credentials carefully before going ahead.
On Land
Apart from organised tours, the simplest, easiest, and arguably the most enjoyable sightseeing option is a circumnavigation of the island with a hire car on the 52 kilometres of paved road, which for the most part, follows the coast. It is best conducted at a leisurely pace over two or three days, rather than a round-the-island-rush, which can be "done" in just 2-3 hours. Taking your time enables the exploration of smaller side roads, encourages local encounters, and opens a whole new window on the island's amazing appeal. Since the road completes a full circle, the best way to appreciate the different perspectives is to travel in both a clockwise and counter-clockwise direction on different days, and at different times of day. Although not a tempting thought on a relaxing holiday, some of the loveliest images happen only at dawn, when most tourists are fast asleep, and setting out just before sunrise can provide unforgettable combinations of natural beauty, human activities, and stunning blends of illumination. Since distances are relatively short, you can always return to your hotel and resume the magical tour after a hearty breakfast born of a healthy appetite - a great way to start the day.
Mountains dominate almost two thirds of the island. The lower slopes comprise mainly coconut plantations, an extension of the thousands of palms growing on the coastal plains - two million coconuts, they say, are exported to Bangkok every month. The higher altitudes are clothed in tropical forest, studded with impressive granite boulders. Many of the dirt roads and tracks are accessible by 4WD vehicles or trail bikes, but it is wise to take local advice before attempting to explore the hinterland unaccompanied. Trekking and mountain bike tours can be arranged through some local travel companies, and for the energetic, the scenic rewards are well worth the loss of perspiration. Also available on organised tours are an Elephant Trek, and a full day Jeep Safari to the less well-known spots in the interior.
The West Coast contains the island's main town of Nathon, which offers little in the way of sightseeing, but has a reasonable selection of shops and restaurants. The back streets still hide some old houses echoing a very different past, and a glimpse of island life before tourism arrived. Nathon is also one of the island's passenger ferry ports, the vehicle ferry port located further south, at Thong Yang. The south-western corner of the island is quiet and picturesque, with smaller roads and villages which are appealing, and most pleasant to explore. There are a number of small beaches here, but they do not compare with those on the East Coast.
The North Coast has a series of smaller beaches, some of which are good for swimming, snorkelling, and windsurfing when the northeast breezes blow from December to February. Hat Phra Yai at Bangrak is best known as the "Big Buddha Beach" - named after the tall gold- tiled sitting Buddha on a small island connected to the beach by a causeway, and constituting one of the island's best known landmarks.
The North East Coast provides a series of smaller capes and picturesque coves, some difficult to reach by road. From here there are excellent views over to Koh Pha-Ngan.
The East Coast: Samui's longest and most beautiful beach of Chaweng is located on this stretch. Fringed with swaying picture postcard palms, it extends for 5 kilometres, and makes for wonderful walks, particularly at dawn or sunset. Chaweng also has the largest variety of water sports, and a good selection of shops and entertainment.
The South East Coast: Samui's second longest beach of Lamai is here, again offering good tourism infrastructure, but with less sand and generally lacking the tropical beauty and exotic feel of Chaweng. Near Lamai there are two curious rock formations called Hinyai and Hinta, carved by the elements over centuries to resemble the male and female genital organs, and resultedly a popular tourist attraction. In Lamai itself there is an old monastery, which includes a small museum.
Some island sightseeing options include: The Butterfly Farm built into a hillside in the southeast corner, and the nearby Samui Aquarium which features live specimens of local marine life. The Samui Snake Farm located in the south west on the 4170 ring road, houses several species of venomous snakes, including a King Cobra (reputedly the largest captive specimen in Thailand) plus scorpions and centipedes, and has a daily show.
The Samui Crocodile Farm, near the airport, also has daily shows. There is an interesting 150 year old Ancient House made of teakwood without using nails at Ban Thale, said to be the oldest house on the island and home to some impressive woodcarvings. Heaven's Garden is an open-air art gallery in the central highlands, the creation of a dedicated local man who sculpted dozens of figures inspired by Buddhist scriptures. Various Monkey Shows demonstrate the useful ability of monkeys to pick ripe nuts, as well as performing other tricks. For more aesthetic pursuits, you may wish to see the island's two mummified monks at Wat Kiri Wongkaram and Wat Khunaram in the south. Another revered site is the Coral Buddha, a small statue visited by Buddhist devotees. Although in disrepair, it is a major place of worship for the monks from nearby Wat Sumret, on the 4169 ring-road. This temple houses numerous Buddha images, the tallest three meters high and originally brought from India. Wat Sila Ngu also on the 4169 ring-road, one kilometer South of Hinta and Hinyai (mentioned above) is said to contain a relic of the Lord Buddha, and the temple is often used for travelling shows. Thai boxing performances can be seen most days at the Samui stadium.
At Living Thailand in the south of the island there is a show reflecting traditional island lifestyles and customs, plus a buffalo theatre and a Thai farming museum. Samui's delightful Airport opened in 1989, and its 2,100 metre runway, handles more than 40 flights a day on services to Bangkok, Phuket, Pattaya (U-Tapao), Krabi and Singapore. More like a botanic garden than an airport, it has won a number of well-deserved awards for design and environmental compatibility. It is worth a visit just to admire the care and artistry that went into its creation.
